This article was authored by Jeff Spies, senior director of policy for Quick Mount PV and secretary of NABCEP
Removing nails
Nail removal is necessary on most flashings to position the upper edge of the flashing up into the third course of shingles. To remove a nail, use a roofing bar or flat bar and follow these steps:
- Break the shingle seal in the proper location. Be careful not to damage the shingles. A key consideration is making sure you are at the seal strip area and not separating laminated layers of the shingles.
- Using a roofing bar, separate the lower shingle from the upper shingle while feeling for the nail locations.
- Use the wedge tip of the tool to pry the nail up and remove the nail from between the shingles on the course above. You will need to break the seal in the next course upward to remove the nail.
A hole will remain where the nail once was. While flashing will cover the hole, it’s good practice to apply a small amount of sealant to the puncture, completely filling it, but not too much or you could blister the shingle.
Installing wood blocks
Sometimes it’s not possible to mount directly to a rafter. When the mount falls between two rafters, it is required that you install wood blocks between rafters. Wood blocking allows installers to place the mount anywhere, without concern for rafter locations.
Wood blocking allows installers to place the mount anywhere, without concern for rafter locations.
Wood blocking can be done with two-by-fours, two-by-sixes or four-by-fours. Quick Mount PV recommends a four-by-four as it offers the largest mounting surface and full lag screw engagement with the rafter. Follow these steps:
- Drill a hole where the mount will be positioned.
- Inside the attic, measure the distance between rafters where the hole is drilled.
- Measure and cut the wood block to that length.
- Insert the block between rafters centered under the holes for each mount.
- Use screws or nails to secure the wood block to the rafters.
Cutting tile for hooks
Often, installers choose to use tile hooks to save time because they don’t require a top flashing. To begin, remove the tiles under which you will work.
For curved tiles, make sure your hook is positioned at the side of the valley of the tile. That minimizes the amount of tile lug—the thicker part of the tile near the edge—that you will have to cut, but make sure you have sufficient clearance under the hook so it will not strike the top of the tile under compression loading. With your tile hook securely installed, position the tile over the tile hook and mark the tile lug on both sides of the tile hook. A tuck-pointing blade is best for cutting off this section of the tile lugs. A conventional diamond blade is best for cutting holes. Safety glasses and a dusk mask are musts for cutting tile.
Rest the tile on a sturdy surface and hold the saw firmly to avoid injury. Use the tuck pointing blade to remove just enough lug to allow the tile to sit back in place comfortably over the hook. If the tile does not sit back down properly, you need to remove more of the lug, or sometimes a bit of the tile further up that might interfere with the upper part of the hook. SPW